Slowing down fast fashion

+ 'unsexy' moths ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌
The Conversation

The fast fashion industry, which generates 12kg of textile waste per person in Europe each year, is facing pressure to change. France has approved a measure that will require ultra-fast fashion brands to pay a 5€ penalty per item, and the European Commission wants to tack 2€ onto each EU-bound shipment and end an exemption on customs duties for orders under 150€. For companies in the sector, it could get costly to keep going cheap.

But there's also a raft of initiatives aimed at altering the way people think about clothes. Sweden has more than halved VAT on clothing and footwear repairs, and the Netherlands has reduced it for services including replacing zips and adjusting sizes. France has created a voucher that offers a discount for repairs in certified workshops, and Spain has mandated that textile brands provide info on the durability of their products. If you wear the same old thing to work every day, you might be on-trend in the years to come.

Ireland votes for a new president next week, and one of the candidates is a Protestant from one of the three Ulster counties not included in the formation of Northern Ireland in 1921. Heather Humphreys, standing for the centre-right Fine Gael party, describes herself as a republican and also acknowledges her unionist heritage. It has emerged that Humphreys' husband once belonged to the Orange Order, an organisation some in Ireland associate with enduring sectarianism. Her background has, therefore, raised some interesting questions about religion, identity and post-conflict community relations in modern Ireland.

You'd be forgiven for wondering just what the heck is going on in French politics, which saw the reinstatement of Prime Minister Sébastien Lecornu four days after he resigned last week. But something concrete happened in parliament on Tuesday: Lecornu pledged to suspend pension reform, which the government forced into law without a vote in 2023, until after the 2027 presidential election. That is big news for the hundreds of thousands of people who publicly protested the reform, which raised the retirement age from 62 to 64, and for those concerned about the potential effect of the suspension on France's coffers. Lecornu's move also put the spotlight on the Socialist Party, which had demanded his pledge.

One way that farmers prevent crop-eating moths from reproducing is by spreading synthetic pheromones that lead males away from females. But it can be expensive to replicate the exact blend that is needed in a factory. To address this problem, researchers identified the scent-making gene and then silenced it with Crispr, a gene-editing tool — "we effectively created an 'unsexy' moth", explains one. By inserting the gene into yeast or plants, the pheromones can now be made "naturally and cheaply", she writes.

Philippe Theise

Editor, Paris

How Europe is using taxes to slow down fast fashion

Albert Navarro García, Universitat de Girona

The EU and national governments have proposed legislation to curb the industry's environmental impacts.

A Protestant candidate has added a twist to Ireland's presidential race

Peter John McLoughlin, Queen's University Belfast

Heather Humphreys is a republican but has family ties to the Orange Order.

With delay of pension reform, Prime Minister Sébastien Lecornu puts France's Socialist Party back in the spotlight

Benjamin Morel, Université Paris-Panthéon-Assas

Will the new French government last? The suspension of the controversial reform until after the 2027 French presidential election was key to the Socialist Party agreeing not to support a potential no-confidence vote in the government.

We created an 'unsexy' moth that could be the key to greener pest control

Marie Inger Dam, Lund University

Scientists have learned how to turn off moths' sex signals – this could help farmers fight pests without pesticides.

Russia's 'permanent test' is pushing Europe to the brink of war – here's what Moscow actually wants

Christo Atanasov Kostov, IE University

Moscow's provocations may seem rash and incoherent, but they're all part of a conscious, focused strategy.

A 'digital twin' of your brain could predict mental health issues, and slow cognitive decline

Jon Andoni Duñabeitia, Universidad Nebrija

Digital duplicates of our brains could revolutionise mental healthcare.

The troubling relevance of Woody Guthrie's new album, released 58 years after his death

Daniele Curci, Università di Siena

In his lyrics, the folksinger and herald of US postwar social struggles described his era. In some ways, it resembles our own.

Does resistance training really improve your gut microbiome?

Rosie Young, Quadram Institute

Previously inactive people who started lifting weights showed significant changes in their gut bacteria within eight weeks.

 
 
 
 
NewerStories OlderStories Home

0 comments:

Post a Comment